Starting up a swimming pool after the off-season or during the initial installation is a critical process that sets the foundation for a clean, safe, and enjoyable swimming environment. Whether you’re preparing your pool for the summer season or getting a brand-new pool ready for use, understanding the correct steps for pool start up is key to ensuring optimal water quality, equipment functionality, and overall user satisfaction.
This detailed article walks you through each and every stage involved in pool start-up, focusing on in-ground pools and covering all essential components—from cleaning and filling to chemical balancing and equipment checks.
Why Proper Pool Start Up Matters
A successful pool startup helps prevent common issues such as algae growth, cloudy water, and equipment wear. It ensures that your filtration system, pumps, heaters, and sanitation systems are functioning properly and that the water is safe and comfortable for swimmers. Taking your time during this process can avoid costly mistakes and rework later.
Step-by-Step Guide to Pool Start Up
Starting your pool involves several stages: visual inspection, cleaning, equipment check, filling the pool, initiating circulation, water testing, balancing chemicals, and final checks. Below is a detailed breakdown of each step:
Step 1: Pre-Startup Inspection and Planning
Before diving into physical labor, take some time to review your pool’s previous season documentation. Look for last known chemical levels, maintenance notes, and any known equipment issues.
Visual Inspection of the Pool Area
Walk around the perimeter of the pool, including the deck, fencing, ladders, and skimmers. Check for:
- Cracks, leaks, or structural damage
- Loose tiles or plaster issues
- Functionality of covers, ladders, and safety features
- Debris or leaves that may have accumulated
Take photos or notes of anything that needs repair or attention before water is added.
Inspect Pool Equipment
This includes:
- Pump and motor
- Filter system (sand, cartridge, or DE)
- Heater (gas or solar)
- Automatic pool cleaner
- Chlorinator or salt chlorine generator (if installed)
Ensure all pieces are present, undamaged, and ready to be reconnected if disassembled for winter.
Step 2: Clean the Pool Thoroughly
A clean pool surface is not just about aesthetics—it’s essential for the chemical process to be effective. Begin by removing all winter covers and winterizing materials (winter plugs, skimmer baskets, floating devices, etc.).
Brush and Sweep the Pool Walls and Floor
Use a pool brush with the appropriate bristles (nylon for vinyl, stainless steel for concrete) to scrub all surfaces. Pay special attention to:
- Corners
- Beneath the ladders or steps
- Around the waterline
Also, manually vacuum any large debris.
Skimmer and Return Jet Maintenance
Clean out the skimmer baskets, and remove any blockages from the return jets. Clear any residual winter foam or gunk that might be stuck in these fittings.
Shock the Pool (Optional but Recommended)
Some pool professionals recommend shocking the pool with chlorine or non-chlorine oxidizer during the cleaning process, especially if visible stains or algae remains. However, this is often done after water circulation has begun.
Important: Never add chlorine or other chemicals directly into the pump or filter without water circulation to avoid corrosion or damage.
Step 3: Fill the Pool or Refill Water
If the pool has been winterized and drained partially or completely, the next step is to fill it back up. Use only clean, potable water.
Monitor Fill Rate to Avoid Overloading Pipes
Depending on the type of pool (plastic, concrete, or vinyl), there are structural limits to how fast you can refill. Rapid filling may damage:
- Light niches
- Skimmers
- Inlet jets
- Return lines embedded in the walls
Open air bleeders or remove drain plugs gently while water flows in to prevent pipe damage.
Check Water Level Before Equipment Activation
The water level should be about halfway up the skimmer opening to allow for proper skimming and circulation. Lower levels may draw air into the pump, causing damage.
Step 4: Restore Pool Equipment Functionality
Now that the pool is filled and clean, it’s time to reinstate the mechanical systems.
Reconnect and Prime the Pool Pump
- Reinstall all winter plugs.
- Reconnect filter lines and pipes.
- Open all valves related to the system.
- Prime the pump by removing the pump lid and filling the chamber with water to prevent dry start-ups.
Never switch on the pump without water in the chamber! Doing so can damage the seals and motor.
Check the Filter System
- For sand filters, ensure the sand is clean and not clumping—replace it every 5–7 years.
- Cartridge filters should be washed or replaced if damaged.
- DE (diatomaceous earth) filters will require recharging with DE powder after restarting.
Set the multiport valve to the “Filter” position. This is the normal operating mode.
Heater and Salt Chlorine System
If your pool uses a salt chlorine generator or a heater:
- Reconnect and inspect electrodes or heat exchangers.
- Ensure all water flow sensors are clear.
- Reset any error codes or settings as per the manual.
Step 5: Initiate Water Circulation
Start the pool pump and allow water to circulate for several hours (at least 6–8 hours) before moving on to chemical balancing.
Monitor for Leaks or Loss of Prime
If the pump loses its prime within the first hour or if you hear unusual noises, check for:
- Air leaks in the suction lines
- O-ring damage
- Improper connection points
If problems persist, turn off the equipment and troubleshoot any issues before continuing.
Step 6: Test Pool Water Parameters
This is a critical step in preventing staining, scaling, and swimmer discomfort. Water chemistry must be accurate from the start to support a stable system.
What to Test
Use a digital test kit, reagent drops, or pool test strips to measure:
| Parameter | Recommended Level |
|---|---|
| Free Chlorine | 1 – 3 ppm |
| pH | 7.2 – 7.6 |
| Total Alkalinity | 80 – 120 ppm |
| Calcium Hardness | 200 – 400 ppm |
| Cyanuric Acid (Stabilizer) | 30 – 50 ppm |
| Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) | <1,500 ppm |
Test Sources
- Liquid drop kits (most accurate)
- Digital testers (more expensive, easier to store)
- Test strips (less precise but convenient)
Step 7: Balance Pool Water Chemistry
Now that you have test results, it’s time to adjust chemical levels accordingly.
pH Level Adjustment
Most pools are acidic after startup. To raise pH:
- Add soda ash (sodium carbonate) slowly into the deepest end of the pool.
- Avoid overdosing—small additions are safer.
If pH is too high (above 7.6):
- Use muriatic acid (hydrochloric acid) or sodium bisulfate carefully.
Take safety precautions: wear gloves, goggles, and avoid breathing fumes.
Balance Total Alkalinity
Total alkalinity acts as a buffer for pH. If your pH is out of balance and the TA is low:
- Add sodium bicarbonate to raise total alkalinity.
- Allow it to circulate for at least 6 hours before retesting.
Adjust Calcium Hardness
Lack of calcium can cause etching, while an excess causes scaling.
Low calcium:
- Add calcium chloride to the water evenly.
Do not pour directly on pool surfaces—dissolve in a bucket first.
Too high calcium:
- If significantly above 500+ ppm, consider partial draining.
Increase Stabilizer Levels (Cyanuric Acid)
Especially important for outdoor pools using chlorine.
- Add cyanuric acid (stabilizer) gradually or use stabilized chlorine tablets in the chlorinator.
- Let the system run for at least 24 hours post-application to circulate.
Nitrate and Phosphate Removal (Optional)
If algae is a chronic problem, consider testing for phosphate levels and using a phosphate remover to limit nutrients.
Step 8: Add Sanitizing Solution
Once water balance is correct, it’s time to protect your pool from algae and bacteria.
Chlorine Shock the Pool
- Use a non-chlorine shock (potassium monopersulfate) if you’re using a salt chlorine generator.
- Alternatively, a chlorine shock (calcium or lithium hypochlorite) will quickly sanitize the water.
Shock at dusk or nighttime to maximize effectiveness and reduce sun degradation.
Determine the Appropriate Sanitizer Routine
Choose between:
- Traditional chlorine tablets (salt tabs, trichloroisocyanuric acid)
- Salt chlorine generators
- Liquid chlorine (sodium hypochlorite)
- Bromine (typically for spas)
If you’re using a salt chlorine system, ensure the system is primed with proper salt levels (check manufacturer guidelines, typically around 2,000–3,400 ppm) before switching it on.
Step 9: Add Water Clarifiers and Algaecides
To provide added protection during your startup:
- Use a pool clarifier to help your filter catch fine particles.
- Apply a preventative algaecide—typically a 60% copper-based solution for best results.
Note: Don’t rely on algaecide as a replacement for proper chlorine levels—its main purpose is to supplement sanitization.
Step 10: Run Equipment and Monitor Performance
Once all chemicals are added and the equipment is running:
- Circulate the water for at least 24 hours before testing again.
- Review pressure gauge on the filter to ensure it’s within normal operating range.
- Check backwash frequency, and log operational flow rates.
A healthy pool system should maintain balanced chemistry with minimal daily dosing.
Miscellaneous Considerations for Pool Start Up
While pool start up is a procedural task that follows defined steps, a few optional or additional items may affect your results:
Pool Surface Type and Material Sensitivity
Different pools require slightly different startup adjustments:
- Concrete (gunite) pools may require additional pH management and special startup kits.
- Vinyl pools are sensitive to imbalance, especially calcium hardness.
- Fiberglass pools tend to be more forgiving, but water balance is still crucial.
Each type may also require a different approach to brushing and shock dosing.
Use of Smart Tools or Testers
Consider modern water test tools such as smart chlorine or pH sensors that connect to your phone. They help monitor pool chemistry over time and can alert you to fluctuations.
Automated Dosing Systems
If you find pool chemistry tough to manage manually, invest in a floating dosing system or a peristaltic pump that adds chemicals based on test readings. These systems keep your pool consistently balanced without frequent maintenance.
Tips for Maintaining Pool After Start Up
Pool startup is just the beginning! Once your pool is running well, follow these best practices to extend the life of your equipment and water quality:
- Test and adjust chemistry weekly or after heavy use.
- Monitor filter pressure daily.
- Clean skimmer and pump baskets frequently.
- Brush pool walls and vacuum at least once a week.
- Backwash your filter when the pressure gauge exceeds 8–10 psi above normal.
Maintaining accurate water chemistry and regular maintenance prevents costly repairs and unsightly water issues.
Conclusion
Understanding the proper steps for pool start up ensures not only better water clarity and sanitation, but also increases the life of your equipment and enhances swimming safety. Whether you’re preparing a backyard oasis or managing a community pool, a thoughtful and systematic start-up process is the best way to begin your season.
By following the process outlined in this guide—from visual checks to full circulation and chemical balancing—you’ll have a sparkling, healthy pool ready for use in no time. Taking it slowly and thoroughly pays off in long-term satisfaction and pool wellness.
Remember, proper water management doesn’t end at start up. Keep these best practices in routine maintenance and enjoy years of low-stress, fun-filled swimming enjoyment!
What Should I Do Before Removing the Pool Cover?
Before removing the pool cover, it’s essential to prepare the pool area and the water underneath. Start by checking the water level—ideally, it should be at the midpoint of the skimmer. If the water is too high, use a submersible pump to lower it. If the cover is filled with water, use a cover pump to remove the standing water to prevent dirt and debris from entering the pool when you take the cover off. Clear away any large debris around the edges of the cover to make the process cleaner and more efficient.
Once the cover is dry or mostly free of water, carefully remove it and lay it on a clean, dry surface. Rinse it off, let it dry completely, and store it in a cool, dry space for the season. While removing the cover, be cautious not to let leaves or dirt fall into the pool, though some debris is inevitable and will be addressed in the cleaning phase of the startup process.
How Do I Clean the Pool After Removing the Cover?
After removing the cover, begin by using a leaf net or skimmer to remove any large debris floating on the surface. Next, brush down the walls and steps of the pool to loosen algae and dirt that have settled over the winter. A sturdy pool brush with bristles suited for your pool surface—nylon for vinyl or fiberglass, steel for concrete—will work best. Then, vacuum the pool floor to remove sediment and fine particles that may be clouding the water.
Consider using a manual or automatic pool vacuum, depending on your setup. If the water appears murky or green, it might be necessary to shock the pool after brushing to help kill algae and restore clarity. During the cleaning phase, don’t forget to clean the skimmer basket and pump strainer basket, as debris may have accumulated there before the shutdown.
How Do I Prime the Pool Pump and Why Is It Important?
Priming the pool pump involves filling the pump strainer basket chamber with water to help create the suction needed to circulate water through the system. Start by turning off the pump, then open the pump lid and fill the chamber with water until it’s just below the rim. Replace the lid securely and turn the pump on. Listen for any unusual sounds, such as gurgling or cavitation, which could indicate air in the system that needs to be bled out.
This step is crucial because without proper priming, the pump won’t circulate water efficiently, and chemicals won’t be properly distributed. The filtration system also won’t be able to clear debris and contaminants, which can lead to cloudy or unhealthy water. Skipping this step could result in unnecessary strain on your pump motor and potential damage over time.
Why Is Testing and Balancing the Water Important After Startup?
Testing and balancing the water after startup is essential to ensure that the pool is safe, comfortable, and easy to maintain. Imbalanced water can irritate swimmers’ skin and eyes, corrode equipment, and promote algae growth. Key parameters to test include pH, total alkalinity, calcium hardness, and sanitizer levels—typically chlorine or bromine. Use a reliable test kit or test strips, and compare the results to ideal ranges.
After determining the current levels, adjust the chemicals accordingly. Begin by balancing alkalinity, which stabilizes pH levels. Once alkalinity is adjusted, correct the pH to fall between 7.2 and 7.8. Proper calcium hardness—between 200 and 400 ppm—helps prevent plaster damage and scaling. Once these levels are stabilized, add the appropriate sanitizer to kill bacteria and algae spores, ensuring the pool is safe for use.
How and When Should I Shock the Pool During Start Up?
Shocking the pool during startup is best done after cleaning the pool but before running the filtration system continuously. This ensures that any algae or bacteria brought out of hiding by brushing are immediately targeted. Test the water first to determine chlorine or non-chlorine shock compatibility, and choose a shock that suits your sanitizer system—especially if you use a saltwater chlorinator or other chlorine-generating systems.
Add the shock in the evening to allow it time to circulate and fully break down contaminants overnight. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for proper dosage, and pre-dissolve granular shock in a bucket of water before pouring it into the deep end of the pool to avoid bleaching surfaces. After shocking, operate the pump for at least 8–12 hours and retest water chemistry the next day.
How Long Should I Run the Filter During the Startup Process?
During the startup process, your filter should run for at least 8–12 hours daily, possibly longer depending on water clarity and contamination levels. Continuous filtration in the early days ensures thorough water circulation and effective removal of debris, algae, and organic matter loosened during brushing. This consistent filtration also helps chemical treatments disperse evenly throughout the pool.
The exact amount will depend on your pump size and pool volume, but avoid shutting off the system during the initial startup. For pools that appear cloudy or green, you may need to run the filter 24/7 for a few days until the water clears and stabilizes. Regular filter runs contribute to balanced water and a clean startup, making maintenance easier and more effective moving forward.
What Maintenance Steps Should Follow Pool Startup?
Ongoing maintenance after startup includes daily skimming, brushing, and monitoring chemical levels to keep the water balanced and clean. Set a routine for checking pH, chlorine levels, and other chemical readings at least twice a week. Add sanitizer as needed and continue running the filter system for optimal circulation. Clear the skimmer and pump baskets of trapped debris regularly to maintain optimal water flow.
Additionally, vacuum the pool weekly and inspect equipment like the pump, filter, and heater for signs of wear or malfunction. Backwash sand and DE filters when pressure gauges exceed normal operating levels, and clean cartridge filters as needed. Consider using algaecide and a pool cover to preserve water quality between uses. A consistent maintenance schedule will keep your pool inviting and reduce the risk of costly repairs or major cleanups later in the season.